| The
main thing that makes Vaigach unique and appealing for those willing to
discover the Arctic is more than just nature characteristics of this remarkably
beautiful area. The peculiarity of Vaigach is primarily due to the fact
that for many centuries it was the Sacred Island for the Nenets (Nentsy)
people. According to their legends their gods’ abode was located
here. Deer-herders and hunters annually visited the island to make sacrifices
to the mighty deities and to pray for protection from enemies and good
luck in hunting.
Even
during the 19th century nobody dared to live on Vaigach , and
only in the 20th century (during the Soviet times) the permanent residences
were found here: the frontier post and the radio station in the Vaigach
settlement in the north of the island, and the Varnek settlement in Lyamchina
Bay on the south-western shore numbering less than 100 inhabitants.
Every
summer the Nenets people visited the island to make ritual sacrifices.
They had to cross the Yugorsky Strait in the frail boats or just on the
sledges with the reindeers. And it is worth mentioning that crossing that
passage was quite complicated due to ice-floes and strong tidal flows
even in the mid-summer
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The
Nenets people called the deserted island Hebidya Ya, that means
“the Saint Land”. This is where the most ancient of
the known Nenets shrines were situated – the shrines of their
main deities. ‘The children and the grandchildren” of
those gods have their own shrines in different parts of the continental
tundra – from the White Sea to the Enisey river.
In the sacred sites the nenets mounted huge wooden idols. The most
esteemed gods were Vesako (“the Old Man”) and Hodako
(“the Old Woman”). Vesako ‘lived’ in the
southern part of Vaigach on the Dyakonova Cape. The idol of Vesako
was a high wooden figure with seven faces, accompanied by the retinue
of 400 smaller wooden idols depicting the men, women and children,
and also about 20 stone statues.
This
was the description of the main shrine on Vaigach made by the first
European visitors. The English Captain Steven Barrow arrived on
the island in 1556, and the Dutch navigator William Barents saw
its coast 40 years later.
Remarkably that at about the same time another Dutch seafarer, Captain
Roggeven discovered the small Easter Island in the Pacific Ocean.
Nowadays it is world-known because of the ritual god’s statues
installed on its coast. English and Dutch seamen mentioned that
the Vaigach idols had blood-stained eyes and mouths, as Nentsy ‘fed’
their gods with the blood of sacrificed deer. The sacred cave was
located close to Vesako. The frightful howl was allegedly heard
from this cave during the sacrifices.
The
idol of Hodako - a stone block resembling a human figure with a
pointed head – was mounted in the northern part of Vaigach,
at the Bolvansky Nos cape. Hodako was the mother of the Earth and
the hunting patroness. Moreover, the shrine of thesupreme god Num
was in the central part of the island on the Bolshaya Bolvanskaya
Mountain. And Neve-Hege (the Gods’ mother) stood close to
Him, at the cliff with the deep cleft. The Europeans discovered
these two shrines much later, as they were hidden far from the coast,
in the area difficult to access.
Vesako
and Hodako had four sons who went away to different points of tundra.
Nyu-Hegu was worshipped near quaint rock in the south of the island,
while Minissei was worshipped on one of the Urals` peak that is
known now as Konstantinov Kamen, Yalmal was bowed to on a small
peninsula of Obskoya bay (it is believed that Yamal peninsula descends
from this name) . The ultimate sacred place was a Kozmin coppice
on Kanin peninsula. Sanctuaries with wooden gods were erected in
all the aforementioned places, and sacrifices took place over there.
In
1898 an inspired master of northern landscapes Russian artist Borisov
visited the sanctuaries Neve-Hege and Numa in the center of Vaigach.
He was the first among the Europeans to do so. Here is how he described
his impressions. “Having crossed the ultimate obstacle –
the Divine River (Hai-Yaga), we went uphill. Snow was still seen
there in some places, and we still could ride on it in spite of
the fact the snow was too friable in order to hold the deer. We
had stopped at the threshold of this Nenets’ Mecca three miles
away the main sanctuary. I rushed to carefully study the interesting
place and ran across a big pile of idols between the rocks. It was
so huge, that if it would require around 30-40 carts to transport
it to the other place. |
| Seven-faced
Idol |
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| Ancient and
Legendary… |
The
idols of gods, especially those at the western side were surrounded both
with deer and polar bear sculls. Right beside them there were piles of
axes, knifes, chains, parts of anchors. Most likely they were delivered
there from the vessels that crashed there. Details of harpoons, rifles,
bullets were also piled around. Nenets people travel here from thousands
miles away in order to sacrifice a deer and sprinkle with its blood the
sanctuary…. Eyes, ears, lips as well as just dried up blood on some
gods were clear evidence to this”.
Unfortunately,
nowadays, most of the Nenets sanctuaries were ravaged or even devastated.
Archimandrite Veniamin initiated their destruction in 1825. He paid a
visit to the
island with an Orthodox mission and made the Nenets people (after christening
them) to burn out Vesako-God and his suite. Veniamin then put a wooden
cross on the places where sanctuary was. Ten years later, new idols were
erected, not far from the cross and sacrifices continued. The untouched
idols in the center of Vaigach were bowed to even in the beginning of
XX century. Armed people (so-called ‘Wild Nenets’) guarded
the island against invasion. It was strictly prohibited to hunt and even
pick up flowers in proximity of the sanctuaries. As before, there were
no permanent settlements in Vaigach, but it was considered as a “sacred
island” among the Nenets right up to October revolution.
During
the Soviet time most of the unique religious monuments on this “bastion
of obscurantism” were destroyed and visits prohibited. GULAG camp
was built in the south-western part of Vaigach in Lyamchin bay. Prisoners
extracted zinc ore over there. Hundreds of the Nenets were forced to settle
in a village Varnek that was built nearby. All those people had been involved
in shepherding deer and hunting polar fox. And only little more than ten
year ago Vaigach became natural reserve and the barbarian destruction
of its monuments as well as uncontrolled intrusion into the Arctic environment
was stopped. Nowadays, bird and animals feel themselves safety here, and
survived idols are not under a danger of disappearance anymore.
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Archeologists
exploring the island for over the last few years have discovered
some earlier unknown sanctuaries. At the moment there are 15 known
sanctuaries on Vaigach Island. The idols there date back to XIV-XV
century, and some ancient sacrificial objects even date to IX-X
century.
It
is considered, that the first who began to worship to sanctuaries
of the island, were ancient legendary "sirtya", under
the legend, they left to live under the ground and then became gnomes,
then the peoples "pechiera" and "yugra". Since
the sixteenth century, according to Europeans tales, "nenets"
began here to worship to the main gods, and then other northern
peoples came to the island from the North. A small stone, brought
from the Sacred Island, brought good luck in hunting and protected
dwellings from malicious spirits. Some of these sanctuaries have
been kept up to present time and protect rest of Vaigach so strictly
as in past.
The
most terrible times of the Russian history have also passed over
Vaigach Island. There are zinc and lead mines, which functioned
on the island in 1930 - 1940 years and they were part of system
of Prison Camps of special assignment in USSR. In the south of island
- on Razdelniy Cape, the rests of structures of mine filled with
water have been kept until present time with rusted trolleys and
rails. And on ruins of garage towers there is a dilapidated tractor
as a monument to that time.
Today
Vaigach is a natural reserve and there are various historical-cultural
monuments and the settlement Varnek (about 40 residents). Nenets
are engaged in reindeer breeding, crafts, there is a small souvenir-fur
shop on the island.
There
are constant fantastic landscapes, surprising vegetative and fauna
world and that unusual influence which Vaigach impresses people.
The actor Vatslav Dvorzhetsky, who spent on mines of Vaigach for
three years, from 1931 until 1933, writes in the memoirs, that in
spite of hard work, and the status of the prisoner, "…
it always seemed to me, that romanticism there covered the majority.
I don’t remember desponding people…". And one more
citation from his book - "…improbable "miracles"
were on Vaigach. For example, nobody was sick. It was possible to
freeze there but not to catch a cold. No microbes…"
And
it is so really. The modern scientists who have visited the island,
speak, that Vaigach is unique its geomagnetic properties. A person,
at subconscious level, receives there the most powerful charge of
energy, very quickly adapts for the environment, instantly forgetting
all illnesses and stresses. Some days on island, will give you a
charge of vivacity for the whole year.
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