Poseidon Arctic Voyages

1/4, 2nd Smolensky pereulok,
Moscow, 121099, Russia

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The sanctuary ‘Mountain of Idols’ is located at Primetnaya Mountain at 70º02’N, 59º20’E. Its height is 108 meters. Around the mountain and on top of it a lot of ancient reindeer horns and bones were found. Near the rocks, which circle the top of the mountain old items made of steel (including several axes) were found. In 1987 the reindeer herder A.Valeiskiy had gathered the wooden idols that have been scattered all over the mountain, and put them on top of it. Among them there is seven-faced Vesako Idol. Some sources consider this place to be the famous Neve-Hege Sanctuary…

Museum Model of Nenets’ Shrine

The main thing that makes Vaigach unique and appealing for those willing to discover the Arctic is more than just nature characteristics of this remarkably beautiful area. The peculiarity of Vaigach is primarily due to the fact that for many centuries it was the Sacred Island for the Nenets (Nentsy) people. According to their legends their gods’ abode was located here. Deer-herders and hunters annually visited the island to make sacrifices to the mighty deities and to pray for protection from enemies and good luck in hunting.

Even during the 19th century nobody dared to live on Vaigach , and only in the 20th century (during the Soviet times) the permanent residences were found here: the frontier post and the radio station in the Vaigach settlement in the north of the island, and the Varnek settlement in Lyamchina Bay on the south-western shore numbering less than 100 inhabitants.

Every summer the Nenets people visited the island to make ritual sacrifices. They had to cross the Yugorsky Strait in the frail boats or just on the sledges with the reindeers. And it is worth mentioning that crossing that passage was quite complicated due to ice-floes and strong tidal flows even in the mid-summer

 

The Nenets people called the deserted island Hebidya Ya, that means “the Saint Land”. This is where the most ancient of the known Nenets shrines were situated – the shrines of their main deities. ‘The children and the grandchildren” of those gods have their own shrines in different parts of the continental tundra – from the White Sea to the Enisey river.
In the sacred sites the nenets mounted huge wooden idols. The most esteemed gods were Vesako (“the Old Man”) and Hodako (“the Old Woman”). Vesako ‘lived’ in the southern part of Vaigach on the Dyakonova Cape. The idol of Vesako was a high wooden figure with seven faces, accompanied by the retinue of 400 smaller wooden idols depicting the men, women and children, and also about 20 stone statues.

This was the description of the main shrine on Vaigach made by the first European visitors. The English Captain Steven Barrow arrived on the island in 1556, and the Dutch navigator William Barents saw its coast 40 years later.
Remarkably that at about the same time another Dutch seafarer, Captain Roggeven discovered the small Easter Island in the Pacific Ocean. Nowadays it is world-known because of the ritual god’s statues installed on its coast. English and Dutch seamen mentioned that the Vaigach idols had blood-stained eyes and mouths, as Nentsy ‘fed’ their gods with the blood of sacrificed deer. The sacred cave was located close to Vesako. The frightful howl was allegedly heard from this cave during the sacrifices.

The idol of Hodako - a stone block resembling a human figure with a pointed head – was mounted in the northern part of Vaigach, at the Bolvansky Nos cape. Hodako was the mother of the Earth and the hunting patroness. Moreover, the shrine of thesupreme god Num was in the central part of the island on the Bolshaya Bolvanskaya Mountain. And Neve-Hege (the Gods’ mother) stood close to Him, at the cliff with the deep cleft. The Europeans discovered these two shrines much later, as they were hidden far from the coast, in the area difficult to access.

Vesako and Hodako had four sons who went away to different points of tundra. Nyu-Hegu was worshipped near quaint rock in the south of the island, while Minissei was worshipped on one of the Urals` peak that is known now as Konstantinov Kamen, Yalmal was bowed to on a small peninsula of Obskoya bay (it is believed that Yamal peninsula descends from this name) . The ultimate sacred place was a Kozmin coppice on Kanin peninsula. Sanctuaries with wooden gods were erected in all the aforementioned places, and sacrifices took place over there.

In 1898 an inspired master of northern landscapes Russian artist Borisov visited the sanctuaries Neve-Hege and Numa in the center of Vaigach. He was the first among the Europeans to do so. Here is how he described his impressions. “Having crossed the ultimate obstacle – the Divine River (Hai-Yaga), we went uphill. Snow was still seen there in some places, and we still could ride on it in spite of the fact the snow was too friable in order to hold the deer. We had stopped at the threshold of this Nenets’ Mecca three miles away the main sanctuary. I rushed to carefully study the interesting place and ran across a big pile of idols between the rocks. It was so huge, that if it would require around 30-40 carts to transport it to the other place.

Seven-faced Idol
Ancient and Legendary…

The idols of gods, especially those at the western side were surrounded both with deer and polar bear sculls. Right beside them there were piles of axes, knifes, chains, parts of anchors. Most likely they were delivered there from the vessels that crashed there. Details of harpoons, rifles, bullets were also piled around. Nenets people travel here from thousands miles away in order to sacrifice a deer and sprinkle with its blood the sanctuary…. Eyes, ears, lips as well as just dried up blood on some gods were clear evidence to this”.

Unfortunately, nowadays, most of the Nenets sanctuaries were ravaged or even devastated. Archimandrite Veniamin initiated their destruction in 1825. He paid a visit to the
island with an Orthodox mission and made the Nenets people (after christening them) to burn out Vesako-God and his suite. Veniamin then put a wooden cross on the places where sanctuary was. Ten years later, new idols were erected, not far from the cross and sacrifices continued. The untouched idols in the center of Vaigach were bowed to even in the beginning of XX century. Armed people (so-called ‘Wild Nenets’) guarded the island against invasion. It was strictly prohibited to hunt and even pick up flowers in proximity of the sanctuaries. As before, there were no permanent settlements in Vaigach, but it was considered as a “sacred island” among the Nenets right up to October revolution.

During the Soviet time most of the unique religious monuments on this “bastion of obscurantism” were destroyed and visits prohibited. GULAG camp was built in the south-western part of Vaigach in Lyamchin bay. Prisoners extracted zinc ore over there. Hundreds of the Nenets were forced to settle in a village Varnek that was built nearby. All those people had been involved in shepherding deer and hunting polar fox. And only little more than ten year ago Vaigach became natural reserve and the barbarian destruction of its monuments as well as uncontrolled intrusion into the Arctic environment was stopped. Nowadays, bird and animals feel themselves safety here, and survived idols are not under a danger of disappearance anymore.

Archeologists exploring the island for over the last few years have discovered some earlier unknown sanctuaries. At the moment there are 15 known sanctuaries on Vaigach Island. The idols there date back to XIV-XV century, and some ancient sacrificial objects even date to IX-X century.

It is considered, that the first who began to worship to sanctuaries of the island, were ancient legendary "sirtya", under the legend, they left to live under the ground and then became gnomes, then the peoples "pechiera" and "yugra". Since the sixteenth century, according to Europeans tales, "nenets" began here to worship to the main gods, and then other northern peoples came to the island from the North. A small stone, brought from the Sacred Island, brought good luck in hunting and protected dwellings from malicious spirits. Some of these sanctuaries have been kept up to present time and protect rest of Vaigach so strictly as in past.

The most terrible times of the Russian history have also passed over Vaigach Island. There are zinc and lead mines, which functioned on the island in 1930 - 1940 years and they were part of system of Prison Camps of special assignment in USSR. In the south of island - on Razdelniy Cape, the rests of structures of mine filled with water have been kept until present time with rusted trolleys and rails. And on ruins of garage towers there is a dilapidated tractor as a monument to that time.

Today Vaigach is a natural reserve and there are various historical-cultural monuments and the settlement Varnek (about 40 residents). Nenets are engaged in reindeer breeding, crafts, there is a small souvenir-fur shop on the island.

There are constant fantastic landscapes, surprising vegetative and fauna world and that unusual influence which Vaigach impresses people. The actor Vatslav Dvorzhetsky, who spent on mines of Vaigach for three years, from 1931 until 1933, writes in the memoirs, that in spite of hard work, and the status of the prisoner, "… it always seemed to me, that romanticism there covered the majority. I don’t remember desponding people…". And one more citation from his book - "…improbable "miracles" were on Vaigach. For example, nobody was sick. It was possible to freeze there but not to catch a cold. No microbes…"

And it is so really. The modern scientists who have visited the island, speak, that Vaigach is unique its geomagnetic properties. A person, at subconscious level, receives there the most powerful charge of energy, very quickly adapts for the environment, instantly forgetting all illnesses and stresses. Some days on island, will give you a charge of vivacity for the whole year.